Starting a Fine Jewelry Business, Part 3 Designs

Basic-Chemicals Used in Jewelry-Making

  • Borax – It prevents oxidation of the metal being melted. Oxide delays the metal from sticking or getting welded to heating dish and other tools.
  • Boric Acid – It also prevents oxidation of the metal being melted.
  • Sulfuric Acid-It is used as a pickling solution (10% sulfur and 90% water).
  • Nitric Acid – It is necessary for cleaning white gold dust. This is also used in processing gold alloy.
  • Saltpetre – It serves as a cleansing agent. This is mixed with the metal being melted to remove dirt.
  • Plating Solution – It is a surface coating material used to improve the durability and beauty of the metal. Jewelry gold dipped into this solution to coat it with a thin gold film. The process is also called gold plating.

Most of the tools and equipment that a jeweler needs can be fabricated or made by the jeweler himself. Otherwise, these are available in hobby shops and hardware stores.

The chemicals can be bought from chemical shops or laboratories. If you are planning to purchase or have the above-mentioned jewelry-making tools fabricated for your own use, consult the Meycauayan Jewelries Association for help.

Jewelry Designs

Designing jewelry that is made of metal like gold or silver involves a combination of one’s capability to observe, record, select, analyze, and gather visual information. A jewelry design can be a product of the jeweler’s creative ideas, which he himself shapes into final form or a finished jewelry. The preferred design can also be conceptualized by getting some ideas from jewelry books, catalogues, and magazines.

In creating jewelry designs, the maker should be very selective in choosing the materials to be used. As much as possible, the materials should meet the discriminating taste of the customer who will use it, the occasion when the jewelry will be worn, and get the budget of the customer.

The jewelry design is commonly transferred etched on a piece of metal by tracing it with a pencil. The design can also be traced on the metal with the help of a carbon paper. To do this, place the design at the edge of the metal to facilitate cutting and to avoid wasting material. Otherwise, the design can be etched on the metal so it will not get erased. To do this, trace the design using a pointed object like the needle file.

Different Kinds of Jewelry Design

A. Men’s Rings

Several designs can be made for different kinds of jewelry. Some of them are conventional which are commonly used in making men’s rings. Examples of these conven-tional designs for men’s rings are the following:

  1. Domino – The ring is either formed into a square or a rectangle, and encrusted with nine to 12 small diamond stones.
  2. Horseshoe – The shape of the ring is just about like that-a horse-shoe. This design has seven to nine small diamond stones arranged along the shape of the horseshoe with one big diamond stone in the middle.
  3. Solo -The most common shape of the ring with this design is circular, oval, or square with a big diamond stone set in the middle.
  4. Birthstone ring – The ring is formed into varied shapes, such as the emerald, oval, or round shape.
  5. Initial or Identification Ring – This design is usually based on the shape of the letters representing the initials of the owner’s name.

B. Ladies’ Rings

For ladies’ rings, the most common designs are the following:

  1. Tiffany – The design is most often used in engagement rings. The ring has a diamond stone and tiny chispas or diamonds.
  2. Ladies’ Initial – Similar to men’s ring, the ring is shaped according into the letter representing the initials of the owner’s name.
  3. Signet Ring – The design of this ring usually bears an emblem, seal, or zodiac sign (astrological sign). This design is usually done according to the owner’s desires.

Popular Earring Designs

Earrings are also made with distinctly varied designs Some of them are the following:

  1. Creolla-The design is circular or loop-like.
  2. Dermilona – This design is composed of three parts:
    • a. face – the setting of a small gemstone
    • b. post – the part which we locally call “pakaw”
    • c. lock-the part that is usually inserted to the post so that the earnings will stay in place whenever they are worn.
  3. Picaporte, also called “de kaha” – This design features the old way of making an earrings lock. It is similar to the creolla but it is not loop-like, and a gemstone can be made a part of the face.

source: TRC Business Guide, www.trc.dost., photo from


  1. By shiela


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